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Forum
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RE: What is this switch for?
Could be a 12 volt hot wire for your 7 way. The switch would turn this on and off? The wiring looks fairly light guage; maybe they were blowing fuses or running the battery down if a trailer was connected. Just a guess. VK
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vikx
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07/14/08 12:23am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Replacing gate valve on Montana 5th
Well, if there's absolutely no other way, consider a "fernco" connector. They are rubber with radiator clamps-a quick way to connect a pipe you may have to cut. (and move again in the future) I haven't had the situation you describe, where there is no way to slip the valve out. Cutting and glueing with a cupler would work as well. VK
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vikx
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07/08/08 01:00am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Replacing gate valve on Montana 5th
The valve is just a skinny thing-about 3/4"? maybe. The things you're seeing in the pipe are the flange adapters. I'm wondering is something is stuck together? You're right, it should just slip out and the new one in. A good night's rest and it'll happen. Good Luck, VK
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vikx
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07/07/08 01:01am |
Tech Issues
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RE: rewiring ac motor fron 220 to 110 volts
On ours, I vaguely remember having to change the wires on the motor terminals but can't remember exactly. Have you done a search on the pump brand or contacted a supplier? Good Luck, VK
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vikx
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07/07/08 12:54am |
Tech Issues
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RE: 15 amp breaker gets hot then trips
14 wire is rated at 15 amps max. I would not take the chance of installing a 20 amp breaker with 14 wire. The WIRE may bet hot instead of the breaker if the amperage use is exceeded. VK
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vikx
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07/07/08 12:47am |
Tech Issues
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RE: 15 amp breaker gets hot then trips
Sounds to me like you have a Square D Homeline twin with both a 15 amp and 20 amp breaker. If this is the case, sometimes they do get hotter than a single, especially if the 20 amp side is running the A/C, as Mel said. If there is another 20 amp circuit (say for the microwave), you might be able to switch the A/C over. Also note what previous posters said about corroded/loose wires. VK
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vikx
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07/05/08 11:44pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Need Heat - Minimal Propane Usage
The only thing I can think of is an Olympian Wave 8 with a thermostat. They use 12 volt power and have a small fan. Also probably overkill for the temps you want. The Wave heaters are a little more controllable temperature wise than the Buddy. You might check out the Wave 3 (3000 BTU on High)and 6(6000 BTUs on High). They would be on all night but set on "Low", a 3 would not cook you in a larger rig. Guessing, I would say you'd get around 1500 BTU on Low.(I use them in vintage travel trailers, 15 footers) VK
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vikx
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07/03/08 12:45am |
Tech Issues
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RE: No power unless plugged in for tent trailer
Strollin is correct on the converter. You've got a problem between the battery and the trailer. Unplug shore power and test the 12 volt power lugs on the fuse board. There should be a large (usually red) wire from the battery and the ground (usually white). If there's no 12 volts, trace backwards toward the battery and test.
After installing the breakers, did you test for 12 volts on both studs of the breaker? If there's 12 volts, you can go toward the trailer, testing as you go. You may have a crimped wire somewhere and the breaker is actually doing it's job, not allowing power when there's a short.
Double check for main fuses at the converter. They can be hidden; usually 30 amps. Also check voltage at battery, it should be around 12.6. Another thought: see if you can trace the main power wire from the fuse board back to the battery. That will allow you to check for damage or breaks. VK
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vikx
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07/01/08 11:39pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: No power unless plugged in for tent trailer
The two silver boxes sound like the resettable 12 volt circuit breakers. Yes, replacing them may fix your problem. Buy the same amperage (20? 30?)of the originals. When you replace them, check all the connections and wiring to make sure they were not melted/hot at one time. If the new breakers fail, then you've got to trace down why.
Your system works like this: the converter changes 110 house power into 12 volts to run the systems in the trailer. It also charges the battery when plugged in. The battery runs the 12 volt items when unplugged. The circuit breakers in line between the battery and converter protect against shorted wiring. If the breaker(s) fail, you have no 12 volts to the trailer. Good Luck. VK
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vikx
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07/01/08 12:52am |
Tech Issues
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RE: No power unless plugged in for tent trailer
I'm a little confused but will try to help. First, the plugs will only work when you're plugged into external power. I would think the converter "on" switch is used when you're using external power. The lights should work on 12 volts. Are you sure there's not a battery ON/OFF switch somewhere? Usually, the lift is wired directly from the battery so it would work as long as the battery is hooked up. There are sometimes one or two 30 amp fuses at the converter (behind it? on the fuse block?). They are mains and could possibly be blown. Good luck, hope this gives you a couple of ideas. VK
PS: Anyone in the area who could help you? Most folks are very willing, even the local RV store.
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vikx
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06/29/08 11:57pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Dometic RM360 cools only on elec, but not propane.
User manual may give more information. Even tho you have one t'stat, it controls two different heat sources. The gas side may be bad. The old t'stats had little tubes going into the cool box. Sometimes they corrode and break. I agree with the above: nice blue flame, I'm thinking about 1/2" or less. Sounds like you've done all the right things. Let us know how it goes. VK
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vikx
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06/29/08 12:00am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Fresh Water Tank Leak
I've had pretty good luck with Plumbers Goop; handy in tight spaces. VK
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vikx
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06/26/08 11:29pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Motorhome AC wiring question
Not sure of code, but if it is an "rv" junction box with push in connections, get rid of it. The outlets in RV's tend to melt from loose push in wires; this could be the same type. An accident waiting to happen...
Mount a proper j box on the cabinet wall and connect the wires according to NEC code. (wires twisted with wing nuts)If I were doing it, I would also arrange the romex neatly and clamp it in place. I don't blame you for asking! VK
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vikx
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06/26/08 11:23pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Dometic RM360 cools only on elec, but not propane.
Check your thermostats. There should be either a dual (electric and gas) or two singles to control cooling. If the gas t'stat isn't working or set properly, the fridge would work on elec but not as well on gas. On an old fridge, you can spend lots on parts, get it working and the cooling unit will die, so try to find used parts. VK
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vikx
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06/26/08 10:46pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Hot Water Smells
Bleach also helps with the smell. After flushing, you might try soaking the tank for a few hours. VK
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vikx
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06/23/08 12:05am |
Tech Issues
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RE: FAN-tastic!
Fantastic service! I haven't dealt with a better company. VK
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vikx
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06/20/08 12:13am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Electric brakes Emergency flasher and break away Question
Pulse Preventer
It's called a pulse preventer and this one seems to be made for more modern vehicles...VK
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vikx
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06/20/08 12:09am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Electric brakes Emergency flasher and break away Question
Well, I don't know your tow vehicle, but in my older Chevys, they would "pulse" the brakes when the flashers were on. I bought a device to remedy this-it installed on the firewall with plenty of airflow, there were fins to cool it. Sorry, but can't remember what it was called. Perhaps one of the 70s Chevy forums would know about it. I'll do more research.
I would think someone standing by the wheels could hear the brakes go on when you pull your breakaway pin. They should at least clunk or make a sound when they are energized. Am not sure they would hum tho-VK
PS: I'll post again if I can find the brake device.
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vikx
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06/19/08 11:40pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Painting Aluminum Roof; Is it worth it?
I'm not a fan of the white roof coatings because they tend to peel and can actually cause roof rot if water creeps underneath. Snow Roof and Kool Seal are coatings that would work for reflection. I would leave an area around each vent totally free of the coating so that you can repair/replace if needed. My hobby is repairing vintage travel trailers and I have spent hours picking and scraping these thick coatings off the roofs...there is a product called "Mobile Coat" which is not so thick; it's for mobile home roofs.
I would do a little research at a paint shop to see what they think about painting the roof and what to use. I'm thinking your new A/C may solve your problem. Also, if it's possible, installing better insulation would make a big difference. Unfortunately, this would involve pulling the ceiling panels. VK
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vikx
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06/18/08 11:39pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Upper Shower Wall Bowing Away from Lower Portion
I have repaired mine but it involved taking the shower stall apart. After that was done, I adjusted the "bow" and used screws with buttons and sealer to tighten it to the wall. You may be able to just flatten the upper portion and re-install the shower frame to hold it in place. I also used shower/tub glue and silicone caulked the top. (be sure the glue is compatible with your shower panels)Hope this gives you a couple of ideas. VK
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vikx
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06/18/08 12:49am |
Tech Issues
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